Santa Fe:
Tree House cafe is closed. Now it’s a promising-looking coffee roaster, Ikonik.
The Legal Tender in Lamy is closed, but might reopen with new owners?
Taos:
Lula’s is closed.
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Santa Fe:
Tree House cafe is closed. Now it’s a promising-looking coffee roaster, Ikonik.
The Legal Tender in Lamy is closed, but might reopen with new owners?
Taos:
Lula’s is closed.
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If you’re visiting NM this summer, keep an eye on the wildfire situation. This blog (nmfireinfo.com) posts bulletins from the Forest Service.
Two current fires could have an impact on your outdoorsy plans: the Tres Lagunas fire is only 10 miles north of Pecos, and a fire north of Silver City has led to evacuations of Hillsboro, on Hwy. 152.
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!!! Tragedy! This restaurant on the edge of Santa Fe has closed, due to a “lease dispute.” That might leave the door open for reopening elsewhere…
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The bar/restaurant in Taos (not the intersection itself!) is closed.
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The ranch north of Taos is closed to visitors! And has been for a while. Sorry for the very, very late notice.
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This bookstore/cafe in Farmington has closed. Rats.
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Just read this on the website:
All caves in El Malpais National Monument are closed to recreational use.
This closure is due to a combination of factors including the outbreak of a fungal disease that is killing millions of bats.
Oh no! And a good reminder to always check for alerts/changes before you head out (especially in summer, when fire danger is high).
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Earlier, I reported that this restaurant in Grants had closed. Now it appears to have just reopened, farther east, at 519 W. Santa Fe Ave.
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So happy to report the Eklund Hotel is open again in Clayton! Looking forward to seeing it again.
Also, correction in the Frontera del Llano section: Mills Canyon CG, in the Kiowa Grasslands, is west of Hwy 39, not east.
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Man, if it’s not one thing, it’s another. The current edition mentions delays due to roadwork at the caverns. That’s done, but now they’re renovating the elevators, so there’s a huge backup there. See details at the caverns site here. In the meantime, to alleviate the crowding, you can walk out the Natural Entrance Trail, which you weren’t allowed to do before.
Also, in town, hotel rates are even more extortionate than ever. The one sub-$100 option, Days Inn, has doubled its rates, to about $150, rack rate. Gulp.
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Sad! The great place in Las Vegas, NM, is now closed. Not sure what future plans are.
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Thanks to a nice woman I met on the plane, I can tell you that the Do Drop Inn, in Portales, has moved onto the plaza (211 S. Ave A), which is handy, because the old location was on a one-way street that I personally accidentally drove by a couple of times!
Also, she said the Dalley Windmill Collection (a photo of which is on the opening page of the Southeast chapter) has moved to a bigger, more official location, which I believe is 722 E. Lime Street, just off U.S. 70–so you should be able to see the windmills on the main drive through town.
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The Blue Front Cafe in Glenwood has closed. This means there’s only very limited dinner options there–a pizza place (Mario’s) open a few nights a week, till 8pm, and the Golden Girls Cafe, also just a couple of nights per week. Golden Girls does good basic breakfast every day, though.
The Rode Inn in Reserve is completely gone. I think it got knocked down for a government parking lot? I honestly can’t tell. I haven’t had a chance to check the alternative lodging options in that town yet.
The Adobe Cafe, outside of Reserve, has reopened. I honestly didn’t know it had closed, and I don’t know yet whether it’s different owners and how/if it has changed, as it was closed on the day I drove by. But for now, proceed cautiously…
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The hot springs Hay-Yo-Kay in Truth or Consequences appear to be closed. But others have opened, and Sierra Grande Lodge was recently purchased by Ted Turner–nothing has changed just yet, but it may get spruced up.
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This restaurant in Santa Fe is now Vivre–same management and chef, but with a French menu, rather than Italian. I haven’t had a chance to eat there yet.
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This lodge near Lake Roberts has new owners, and is now called Little Toad Creek Inn. And it’s in *much* better shape all around–rooms spruced up, restaurant revamped, and even a tavern with house-distilled booze and their own beer.
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Bad news: beloved Aqua Santa restaurant shut last fall!
Good news: Charles Dale (formerly of Encantado) has reopened it as Bouche Bistro.
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A helpful reader just alerted me that the Georgia O’Keeffe Museum in Santa Fe is no longer free on Friday evenings. Now it’s only on the first Friday of the month, to NM residents with ID.
Also, the Sandia Peak Tramway in Albuquerque closes for maintenance periodically–so it’s inaccurate to say it runs “frequently all year round.” If your trip falls outside the winter ski season, be sure to call ahead to check the schedule. The maintenance schedule is also posted on the website now. Next closing is November 4-15.
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This steakhouse/bar on South NM Hwy 14 (outside of Albuquerque) is closed. Goodbye to a local institution!
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Helpful reader Allen wrote in with the following changes:
ALAMOGORDO – FOOD – Coffee and Lunch
Olive Branch Coffee and Deli has closed.
ALAMOGORDO – GETTING THERE AND AROUND
New Mexico Airlines no longer flies to Alamogordo. There is no commercial air service to Alamogordo.
CARRIZOZO
Outpost Bar & Grill is closed.
Looks like the Outpost has been shut for a while. Bummer. I’m heading out on a research trip in April, so look for more news rolling in.
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This restaurant and resort in Tesuque, just north of Santa Fe, is now a Four Seasons property.
The real news is that the chef previously in charge of Terra has gone, so I can’t vouch for the menu any longer. Proceed with caution!
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I noted last fall that Badlands Burgers in Grants was closed, and another reader confirms this and also writes, “Personally, I’d consider El Cafecito as a a food addition for Grants.” Good to know there’s another palatable option–I’ll check it out in my next trip. (Thanks, Warren!)
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Oh boy! When you get off the train in Lamy (maybe one of the coolest places to get off a train in the U.S…), the Legal Tender restaurant is now open. This also gives a nice reason for a bike ride down the rail trail from Santa Fe.
The info is here.
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This vintage motel in Tucumcari has new owners who have really spruced things up, and best of all, it’s open year-round now!
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More reports from helpful reader Allen:
ALAMOGORDO – SIGHTS
The address for New Mexico Museum of Space History should be 5004 US Highway 2001. The given address of 1100 Oregon Avenue is the Family Recreation Center, which has nothing to do with the museum. Also, the new web site is http://www.nmspacemuseum.org/ The site given, http://www.spacefame.org is obsolete.
The entrance to Alameda Park Zoo is at the northwest corner of 10th Street and White Sands Boulevard. The address given, 1321 N. White Sands Blvd., is the back door and is used for deliveries.
The Tularosa Basin Historical Society Museum has been renamed the Alamogordo Museum of History, although the signage outside the museum has not changed. Their web site is http://www.alamogordohistorymuseum.com/
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A helpful reader sends news from the two New Mexico towns with the oddest names.
In T or C, he reports that La Pinata restaurant has been replaced by Maria’s Mexican Restaurant. And…the Spaceport tours are running! Great news. More info here.
In Pie Town, “the Daily Pie Cafe is now the Pie Town Cafe. Their telephone number is (575)-772-2553.”
Thanks, Allen!
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This restaurant in Grants, NM, is closed. (Thanks to Cathy for writing!)
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The Albuquerque branch of this taco place is closed. But the Santa Fe ones are still open.
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I don’t know whether the hours changed at the Taos Drums store, or I got them wrong, but they’re different enough to be worth noting:
10am to 5pm Mon to Fri, 11:30am to 5pm Sun.
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Fernandez de Taos bookstore/newsstand is closed.
Parks Gallery moved from Bent Street to Paseo del Pueblo Norte, just north of the intersection with Kit Carson Road, on the west side of the street.
Laughing Horse hotel/hostel is closed.
Lula’s cafe hours are now 7am to 6pm Monday to Saturday. Nope. Back to breakfast and lunch only: 7am-4pm Mon-Fri, 8am-3pm Sat.
El Gamal’s hours are now 9am to 9pm daily.
Rellenos Café is now La Cueva, though the menu and food is largely the same.
Loka coffeehouse is shut. It’s now Stella’s, an Italian restaurant.
Zebadiah’s in Angel Fire now goes just by Zeb’s.
The Angel Fire visitor center has moved. Look for it on Hwy 434, just south of the T-intersection with Angel Fire Rd.
Correction: Wired? Internet café is behind Albertson’s, not Raley’s.
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Horseman’s Haven is in the wrong place—it is on the opposite side of Cerrillos Road, south of the intersection with Airport Road.
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There’s now a tourist info office in the Rail Runner depot in the Santa Fe rail yard–handy.
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The directions to this retreat center in Abiquiu are not quite right. After a few miles on County Rd. 0155, you must turn right through a marked gate (always open), then continue another mile or so to a fork. Bear left to get to the Dar al Islam gate. Bear right to get to Plaza Blanca.
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Embudo Station in Embudo appears to be shut.
Matilda’s restaurant in Espanola is closed.
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The dances have been moved from the cultural center by the tracks to the plaza in front of the county courthouse, and they run every night during the summer.
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The shop Que Chula is no longer open in Nob Hill—it only runs an online shop now.
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Even before the books were in stores, I knew this one:
Hours at The Curious Kumquat, in Silver City, are lunch Mon-Sat 11am-2pm, dinner Wed-Sat 5.30-10pm. In the summer, they’ll serve tapas too–check the website or call for hours for that.
In general, it pays to call ahead. I try my best to get the info right, but that doesn’t stop a store owner changing their mind the very next day after I’ve called to ask. And I would not characterize New Mexican business owners as always being rigorous in their schedules. And of course, if you encounter any kind of info that’s different from the book, let me know!
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Keep your eyes peeled–the new edition of Moon New Mexico is just around the corner.
If you’re still traveling with the old edition (cow skulls on the cover), scroll back–there’s a lot of information here!
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The office in Santa Fe has moved–it’s no longer on Rodeo Road, but out of the city a little way.
The address is 301 Dinosaur Trail. Where is that, you might ask? It’s just south of where Highway 14 meets I-25. (People who know the area will know it got its name from the dinosaur sculptures there.)
Phone number is 505/954-2002, and office hours are 8am-4:30pm Mon-Fri.
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Pretty old news by now, but for the record, the Galisteo Inn is shut. Too bad.
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This restaurant in Raton is closed.
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By the far the most frequent change I’m making in updating for the second edition (due spring ’11) is adjusting opening hours–90 percent of the time, places are just open less. I’m guessing this has to do with the recession–government-run places have had budget cuts, and tourism is down, so tourist-oriented businesses have scaled back.
Moral of the story: call ahead to check hours when you’re making a special trip.
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The listed phone and website for making reservations at Carlsbad Caverns has changed. Now it’s 877/444-6777 or www.recreation.gov.
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This diner in Roswell is closed.
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This place in Mountainair has changed hands, and the rooms have gotten pretty sketchy. I wouldn’t recommend pre-booking here–take a room only if you can inspect it beforehand.
The cafe seems to be open regularly, though, for late breakfast and lunch every day but Tuesday.
I also noticed Alpine Alley, just north of Mountainair’s main intersection–this looks like good coffee and light food.
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A train trestle north of Chama was recently destroyed in a fire–so the Cumbres & Toltec railroad service is running only on its northern leg in Colorado, from Antonio north. If you have tickets on the train from Chama, they’ll put you on a bus up to Antonio, where you can ride the rest of the train.
Unfortunately, this situation is for the foreseeable future, until they’re able to repair the trestle.
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O Eating House, in Pojoaque, is now a fairly upscale Italian restaurant (but it has the same name). It looks good, if completely different!
The stock at Chimayo Trading Post has dwindled significantly. The owner (his partner passed away) is quite old and doesn’t seem to be restocking the place. Still, if you’ve never been, it’s worth a stop–there are still some treasures here.
In Chimayo, the separate Santo Nino de Atocha chapel has been spruced up and is open all the time now–it’s a bit more modern, but sweet. Take a peek inside, especially in the side chapel.
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As I noted before, the NM history museum is now open. Signage is not quite as detailed as I’d like, but otherwise it’s a nice introduction. The exhibits in the Palace of the Governors (now accessible via the history museum) are the same, fortunately–I find these more interesting.
Walking tours run by the museum go from mid-April to mid-October (not just in summer, like the book says). They last about two hours, and the route depends on who’s leading it, but it covers a couple of miles.
Linda Durham Gallery has moved away from Canyon Road, over to 1800 2nd Street.
Collected Works books has moved to the corner of Galisteo and Water, and now has a coffeeshop inside–lovely.
Adelante Casitas is back to being called Chapelle Street Casitas. Its online booking system is buggy–better to call.
Hotel St. Francis has been redone by the Heritage Hotels & Resorts group–it looks quite chic, but the rates have of course gone up. (The same group has redone the Hotel Plaza Real as well, which is great because that used to be a wasted dump.)
Willee’s bar is shut–it’s now called Corazon and books a lot of hipper live music.
Chispa! bar closes at 11pm now.
Green Palace teahouse is shut.
Carlos’ Gosp’l Cafe is shut. The space in the Design Center now sells NYC-style pizza by the slice–it looks good!
El Tesoro in Sanbusco Center is no longer particularly Salvadoran–the menu is more standard Mex-New-Mex, but everything looks good.
The Treehouse cafe moved to 1600 Lena Street (and unfortunately didn’t bring the nursery with it!).
The Blue Heron restaurant is shut.
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Fernandez de Taos bookstore has moved around the corner, onto Paseo del Pueblo Norte just next World Cup coffee.
The road running along the Rio Grande gorge on the west side has been paved, so you can head down this way and then jog over to Ojo Caliente and on south to Santa Fe–another scenic route, with potential for a hot-springs break! Look for the turn off US 64, about a mile west of the gorge.
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Joseph’s Table is shut! Sad. Sabor de Antonio, a Mexican-style seafood and steak place, is now in the space–which is funny, because this is the second time Antonio has taken over Joseph’s Table’s old space.
Dragonfly Cafe is no longer open for breakfast, except for Sunday brunch. Now it does lunch and dinner (and is closed Tues).
Guadalupe Cafe and the Sustaining Cultures bookstore is shut.
Maverick County Food Co. is shut–it’s now a Japanese place.
Apple Tree is shut.
Byzantium is substantially cheaper than it used to be.
Antonio’s has reopened next to where Guadalupe Cafe used to be, with his good Mexican menu–roast lamb, cochinita pibil.
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The Laughing Horse Inn is no longer particularly cheap, which is odd. I now think the Taos Inn has one of the better deals for solo travelers.
The Paragon Inn has changed names and is embroiled in a bit of a local scandal, and I can’t really bring myself to recommend the place.
Mountain Light no longer functions as a B&B, just a longer-term retreat center.
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The Pink Schoolhouse Gallery is shut. Which means…there appear to be no functioning businesses left in Tres Piedras.
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In Penasco, Sugar Nymphs is open only Thurs.-Sun.
And, duh, the Picuris and Penasco sections are out of order–they should swap.
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Paloma Blanca coffeehouse has shut–it is now an all-purpose restaurant that doesn’t look particularly notable.
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Texas Reds moved across the street and east about a block.
The Hole Thing is shut.
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Consetta’s, the Green Restaurant, is shut.
And sincere apologies–the area code here is 575, but I failed to update many of the businesses listed.
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Cookin’ Books is shut.
Gandy Dancer B&B is shut.
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Evett’s, the old ice-cream parlor, is closed. This leaves only a couple of random places to eat in town, and both were shut when I passed, so I’m not sure what to recommend…
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El Bruno’s has expanded–so there’s more room. But I have heard a couple of reports of bad food recently, along with the usual raves. Still, you don’t have much choice, as it’s the only reasonably good food for miles, and the place is now very comfortable, with patio seating.
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The Inn at the Post, by the turn to Chaco Canyon, is shut.
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Smokin’ J’s BBQ is shut.
Boon’s Family Thai has changed to Thai Basil–not sure whether it’s particularly good.
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Pancake Alley is no longer open Sundays. I do not recommend the green chile stew, but everything else still looks decent.
The Bluffs is no longer open for lunch (just dinner), and it has turned its package liquor store into a bar-lounge.
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The KFC in Shiprock spruced up, and its mutton stew is just not all that great (though the people who work there are wonderful!). Word on the street is that Mannings, a burger place across the way, has better stew, as do the vendors at the flea market.
The flea market is now allegedly open every day, but I haven’t seen it with my own eyes, so I am very skeptical. I got into town after 5pm (alleged closing time), but the area didn’t look like anyone had been set up there.
Also, I mention the Navajo craft shop as being on the south edge of town–it’s actually not that far south. It’s in the strip mall at the southern traffic light–kitty-corner from the KFC.
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The restaurant has changed at the St. James Hotel–it’s basically one big mid-range restaurant, instead of a separate cafe and high-end operation. Food all looks decent.
Johnson’s Cabins is shut.
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The Raton Museum has moved up to 2nd Street (the main drag), just south of Park. Much more room, and very nicely laid out.
The Icehouse is shut.
Pappas’ only serves dinner now, 5-8pm.
Most restaurants shut at 8pm; your later options are Denny’s (sigh) and The Sands, both on Clayton Ave.
And to reiterate, the Budget Host Melody Lane is truly great!
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Shrine of the Testaments is closed.
The Eklund hotel and restaurant was “temporarily” closed–but there was no one around to ask how long this had been going on.
There’s a new cafe just down the corner from the Luna movie theater. But in general, Clayton is really quiet on the weekends.
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Kika’s Kitchen is shut.
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The Santa Fe Trail Interpretive Center in Springer is closed “until further notice.”
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Things have moved around a little on Bridge Street: the Santa Fe Trail Interpretive Center moved across the street to #116, and Tome on the Range moved to #158.
Estella’s is open only 7am-2pm on Saturday (other days’ hours are still the same).
Blackjack’s Grill and Inn on the Santa Fe Trail are shut.
And by the way, I had an excellent meal at the El Fidel Restaurant, and was quite comfortable in the very cheap El Fidel Hotel.
In Mora, the Salman Ranch cafe is no longer open, but the shop and farm are still going strong.
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Pecos Paradise Inn is shut.
La Risa hours have changed: 11am-8pm Thurs-Sat., 8am-6pm Sun.
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This hot spring resort near City of Rocks State Park (north of Deming) is closed.
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In Tucumcari, El Toro restaurant is closed.
In Portales, the Do Drop Inn has scaled way back–it’s just a coffee bar now, with some sandwiches.
In Clovis, the Wholey Cow Deli is shut.
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A couple more things, in addition to those in the earlier post:
The Bear Mountain Lodge is closed.
The Buckhorn Saloon in Pinos Altos has been shut for a while for a renovation, but is set to reopen very soon (perhaps it has already).
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The town is pretty stable.
NazzBar is closed.
Kitchen Zink is no longer operating out of Blue House Cafe–but the cafe is in full swing.
Driftwood Motel is now the Caverns Motel–I can’t vouch for its quality.
The new Trinity Hotel is a great addition–good restaurant/wine bar as well–at Fox Street and Canal.
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Two I just happened to notice on this trip:
Chef du Jour is shut.
Relish sandwich shop is shut.
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Alas, Pie Pantry is shut.
Sunflower Cafe is closed.
Weber’s is closed.
Aaaand Le Bistro is closed.
On the other hand…there is a Starbucks in town now.
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I’m out on the road now, researching for the next edition. It’s been a long time–so I’ve come across a lot of closures, I think exacerbated by the recession. Apologies to everyone who has been frustrated while using the guide–I hope this new info helps some people.
Truth or Consequences
Las Cruces/Mesilla
Alamogordo
Deming
Silver City
Capitan
Roswell
Portales
I’m still on the road, so more news to come…
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American Eagle (the American Airlines subsidiary) has finally started direct flights between Dallas and Santa Fe. Response has been enthusiastic, so it looks like the flights will be a permanent thing, beyond the 60-day trial.
Direct flights from Los Angeles to Santa Fe are set to start in November.
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Taos is jumping on the successful Rail Runner link between ABQ and Santa Fe: Starting June 4, Taos Express will run a shuttle bus will between Taos and the Santa Fe Rail Runner depot, timed with the train’s arrival, on Thursdays, Fridays and Saturdays. Round-trip price is $10, and you can transfer to the Taos Chile Line town bus for free.
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The New Mexico History Museum, an extension of the Palace of the Governors in Santa Fe, opens this weekend.
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This hotel in Albuquerque–the renovated La Posada/former Hilton–will finally be opening in September of this year, and the website is taking reservations.
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Per a reader comment, it looks like this restaurant in Chimayo will reopen in July, after the fire that had shut it for a stretch.
(Thanks, Terry!)
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This museum in Albuquerque has moved to its new, bigger location at 601 Eubank SE.
It has also changed its name to the National Museum of Nuclear Science & History. More info here.
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Ha–a greater error than I could ever grasp: it turns out that the official Four Corners point is actually 2.5 miles off. Sorry about that!
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Major oversight–someone was kind enough to email me with this news months and months ago, but it got lost in the shuffle: Coffee T or C in Truth or Consequences is closed. So is White Coyote.
But there were a number of new businesses in town when I visited last summer for a piece in Budget Travel. (Not mentioned: great pastries, I think by the ex-White Coyote owner, and coffee at Black Cat Books.)
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The big news in the area is twofold:
1) As I mentioned earlier, the RailRunner commuter train now connects Albuquerque and Santa Fe. Schedules are here.
Note that, as a side effect, as far as I can tell, there is no longer a regular city bus linking the ABQ airport to downtown–there is now a free shuttle. Which would be nice, except it runs less frequently and is timed to coordinate with the RailRunner’s departures to Santa Fe. Still, if the times work in your favor, you could easily enjoy a car-free visit to Santa Fe (and Albuquerque).
2) Allegedly, daily direct flights to Santa Fe will be starting June 11. They’ll be operated by American Eagle (American Airlines) out of Dallas-Ft. Worth.
This has been on the table before, and very close to starting, so I’ll believe it when I see it.
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The Rail Runner commuter-rail service between Albuquerque and Santa Fe has officially started. This is just about the coolest thing to happen in New Mexico in decades!
For visitors, this means you could take the dedicated shuttle from the ABQ airport to the Rail Runner, and hop on the train direct to Santa Fe. No rental car, no hassle–ideal especially for a weekend getaway.
I say “could” and not “can” because a lot depends on the train schedule–it doesn’t run super-frequently (about once an hour during rush hours, with nothing in between). The last train to SF departs the ABQ Sunport stop at 6:09pm. But hopefully service will increase due to demand.
But the trip takes a little less than an hour, and you arrive in style in central Santa Fe–suave! Roundtrip is $8.
For schedules and other info, see the Rail Runner website: www.nmrailrunner.com.
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A little slow on this, but the restaurant Rancho de Chimayo had a fire this summer. It’s closed until at least April 2009.
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This doesn’t refer to anything specific in the book–I just thought it was a big step forward: You can now bike all the way to the Balloon Fiesta grounds (thanks, Duke City Fix).
Balloon Fiesta traffic is the single biggest mental deterrent for going, I’d say. The park-and-ride bus system works, but if you can get there under your own power–so much cooler! And a pre-dawn bike ride would be great.
In other news, there’s now an actual flushing public toilet in Madrid! (Previously, porta-potties were all that was available.)
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I just got a helpful email from the Mesilla visitor center (adjacent to Las Cruces):
On page 254 under the Mesilla listing, please change the visitor center information to the following (as it has moved): 2231 Avenida de Mesilla, 575/524-3262 ext. 117. Instead of “small” visitor center, it is now located inside Mesilla Town Hall.
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Again, I spoke too soon: the CCA in Santa Fe (p. 83) hasn’t in fact reopened the James Turrell SkySpace–too bad!
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On p. 66, I describe the Jemez State Monument as being south of Jemez Springs. In fact, it’s just north of the town. Also, the parking area for Spence Springs is more like 1.6 miles north of Battleship Rock.
This isn’t news, obviously–it’s just plain wrong. I have no idea how it happened, and I’m embarrassed it took me so long to realize it. Apologies!
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Mountain Treasures (p. 157) is shut. In fact, the building it was in is completely gone–always disorienting. Also, The Hole Thing is for sale, so might not be reliable for much longer.
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This has been moving around a lot due to the construction on Railyard Park. Short-term: check the website (www.santafefarmersmarket.com) for locations. Long-term: there will be a permanent year-round market hall in Railyard Park, which will open sometime in late summer/early fall.
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Just FYI, ABQ’s transit system is now called ABQ Ride, not SunTran (p. 70).
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Chef du Jour (p. 54) has expanded, and chef Jennifer James (formerly of Graze) is now cooking here. The dinner menu (yes, there’s dinner now too) changes monthly, and is a great deal.
Ambrozia (p. 55) is closed.
The Standard Diner (p. 56) has abandoned its high-low concept—all the same menu, and most of it under $20.
The Green Light Bistro (p. 56) is closed.
The Frontier (p. 57) is no longer open 24 hours—tragedy! It’s open 21 hours: 8am to 5am.
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Nizhoni Moses (p. 49) no longer exists. There are now two Nizhoni galleries, with jewelry and RC Gorman work—one’s on Church St., one block behind the church.
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